Light Up Jacket Build
This is a basic overview on how to assemble and configure a colorful light up vest to build a fun wearable piece of tech and art. It can be assembled from off the shelf components and configured without the need of programming skills or soldering. (This is a work in progress, check back as I add more details and pictures.)
The basic components can all be purchased online (AliExpress) and assembled with a little bit of sewing (or hot glue... 😜 ). Most can be found on Amazon as well, but with the typical vendors mark up.
Parts List
AliExpress delivered all of these components in less than 2 weeks with free shipping. Prices can vary, so I've added what I payed for the parts in August of 2024. The total cost was $107.93. Deal hunters may be able to bring that price down.
Electronics
- Coiled USB A to C cable - $2.30
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806298764255.html
The coiled cable allows for some give between the battery pack and LED strand as you move. - Athom USB-C rgb led controller - $15.25
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256806788456521.html
This controller comes loaded with WLED, so you can control the lights from your phone. It comes with a USB type C connector for power and a JST SM3 (3 pin) connector for the LEDs. - WS2812B RGB LED outdoor strip 2.5cm 20 meters 5v - $39
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805407780449.html
These outdoor LEDs already come with a JST SM3 connector on one end. You just need to cut to the desired length for your project. You can also select a different distance between the LEDs. I selected 2.5cm as it seemed a reasonable density for a grid. - INIU Powerbank 20000mAh - $25
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800225723813.html
This a well reviewed battery bank with more than enough power to run the LEDs. I've run it continuously for 4 hours total without issue.
- Runners waist belt - $3.50
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803017525661.html
This holds the power bank securely while you walk or run around and is waterproof. - Black quick dry shirt - $4.85
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805786180855.html
This synthetic shirt was selected as it would wick away any moisture as I run around. I chose black, so that it would blend well with the mesh vest. You could use any dark shirt in your wardrobe. - Black Mesh Vest - $6.70
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805247153783.html
This acts as the base layer where the LED strip is attached with thread and string. It is worn over the shirt, but underneath the windbreaker. - White windbreaker jacket - $11.33
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801078964598.html
This translucent windbreaker is used a light diffusion layer and to hide the wiring for the LEDs.
RGB LED strands
These outdoor RGB lights were selected because they IP67 rated, meaning waterproof. This is useful, as it protects the electronics from spills and your own sweat. It already comes with a JST SM3 connector attached to one end. So it can be connected to the Athom LED controller without the need to solder or crimp connectors. You can then cut it to the desired length for your own project.
Assembly
The LED strip is attached to this particular mesh vest in 2 different ways. This is because the vest has sections that are solid fabric (probably intended to logos) and mesh.
The section of fabric are hand sewn using thread in a loose spiral pattern, using a curved needle. It holds the strand securely and has held up so far.
I attached the strip to mesh using string in short increments. I tested different methods, and this seemed the most durable and quickest to attach with some curved needle nose pliers, to help loop through the mesh. I made certain it was loose enough to allow to mesh to stretch and bend with minimal resistance.
LED Controller
The RGB LED controller from Athom ( controller link ) has everything you need for this project. The WLED ( project link ) software comes pre-loaded. You can connect to it from your smart phone, via WiFi, then configure it to display various effects (fun colorful patterns). There is also a version with a microphone for patterns with beat detection.
Controller Configuration
Once connected to the power bank, it should power on and broadcast its SSID. It typically starts with the name "WLED-S34D". Using a smart phone, connect to it like a WiFi Hotspot, then go the the web page "4.3.2.1". This should bring up the main WLED web page.
If you select the "TO THE CONTROLS" button, you can change the LED colors to see if the strand is working as expected.
Navigate to the configuration page by clicking "Config⚙" button in the upper right. Then select "LED Preferences" to reach the "LED & Hardware Setup" page. Here you can limit the current to "1000" mA. I wouldn't use any more current than this, as when I set it to "1500" the wire would get uncomfortably warm and I would start to overheat. Although, you can probably bump it up a bit on a cold winter night to intentionally use it as a heater 😀🔥.
Next, navigate to the "2D Configuration" to reach the "2D setup" page. Here we'll configure the panels, or groupings of LEDs, which lets you use the "Effects" built in to show fun patterns.
I configured the LED into 6 total panels. 3 large ones. One for the back and Two in the front of the vest. The other three are small panels that are used to essentially skip segments of the LED strand that go over the shoulders. The first panel 0 is the largest. I set the Dimensions (Width x Height) at 14 x 24. Meaning it has 14 LEDs across and 24 total rows. The "Serpentine" check box must be checked, as the LED strand goes back and forth sideways. The Orientation was set to "Horizontal".
Next press the "Save" button. Once you have your LEDs arranged, you can select a pattern from the "Effects" page and it should light up and look like a cohesive animation.
Cleaning the Vest
The outdoor RGB LEDs are waterproof, so the vest can be soaked in water with a small amount of laundry detergent. You should leave sufficient length for the 3 pin connector, as it should be the only part that does not get dunked into the solution.
Issues and Improvements
Power Usage
While the power bank with the 20000mah batteries provide more that enough power to run for several hours, I have yet to go below 50%. So suspect a smaller and light power pack of about 10000mah should be sufficient for about 4 or more hours. This will remove some weight, making it easier to move.
Cooling and Current Limiting
The LED strip can get uncomfortably warm, especially if your being active. While I limited the current to 1 amp in the configuration, there are some other things I could probably change to better manage the heat. The sales page says the wiring is 26 awg, so if I found a strip that used a thicker wire like 24 or 22 awg, it may not heat up as much.
I could also look at integrating some usb fans to the jacket that are powered from the same power bank. There already some ready made ones available on Aliexpress, used for summer coats and costumes. Although I would have to cut into my windbreaker to install it and it may puff up in an unexpected way.
LED strand Durability
Marc Merlin, who regularly works with LEDs and wearables told me that these outdoor LED strands can break or disconnect internally with enough wear and flexing, causing any LEDs after the break to stop working. He used the strands with 15mm spacing and put them inside clear tubing to protect them. I think mine have lasted because I have the larger 25mm spacing, giving more space to flex and that my strands are loosely coupled to the based layer, allowing them to adjust and slide if there is strain. I might try the newer WS2815b LED strip with 4 wire, as the backup line allows the data line to route around and bad LEDs. They are also 24 awg wire. However, I would have to find or build a different controller. Those LEDs can also be ordered in 5v or 12v power, but it's unlikely I need to boost the voltage, as the drop in brightness at the other end of the strand isn't noticeable to me.
Alternate Base Layer
I found a mesh hoodie on Aliexpress that didn't have any fabric sections, so hypothetically make it easier to attach the LED strip. I plan to use that for a second version that includes a hood and sleeves that are also lit up.
Attaching the LEDs
Much of the LED strip is attached with string or yarn to the mesh portion of vest using a basic double knot. While wearing it at different events, many of the threads began to pop off. I may try to find a more durable knot or add a dab of glue to keep it in place. There is a clove hitch knot used when putting nets together that might be useful. I may 3D print a netting needle to attempt that method of attachment.
I may also experiment with some surface cording techniques, so I can move away from hand sewing and use a sewing machine. Someone showed me a 3D printed sewing machine foot for cording that had a gap the size of the LED strand. The difficult part will be sewing onto such an open mesh material, without restricting the current comfort and flexibility allowed by the current loose connection.
A second experiment is to use some tulle as piping material to hold the LED strand, then sewing the ends onto the mesh. I'm not sure tight or loose the stitch will need to be when sewn onto mesh material.
Alternate LED Controller
I met someone who had built a few light jackets and they highly recommended the PixelBlaze line of LED controllers. He was using the PixelBlaze Pico v3 and said the software was much faster and easier to use. It also supports more customization for the layout of your LEDs. So you don't need to do all the odd 2D configuration I described above. It gives you more flexibility in your light up project. It costs more than the Athom controller at $35, but I plan to try it out. The software is not free or open source, but you're supporting a great maker that put lots of effort into the software.
More Links
WLED code repository - https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED
Athom USB-C slim controller - https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-slim-led-strip-controller
PixelBlaze Controller - https://shop.electromage.com/products/pixelblaze-v3-pico-tiny-wifi-led-controller